TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Crank walk! Think about a twin/tripple disc clutch setup..
People Seeking Info
 
   


     
Subject Crank walk! Think about a twin/tripple disc clutch setup..
     
Posted by KongZTT GT28RS MD on April 15, 2010 at 2:16 PM
  This message has been viewed 857 times.
     
In Reply To brand new toyo t1r's 285 wide, my clutch is a weak point posted by Hoppy2 on April 15, 2010 at 10:23 AM
     
Message Not sure how well designed the Thrust bearing/washer is on our VG motors, but I have been doing some researching lately about other engines and the problems that single disc, high clamping pressure plates do.

Personally I have the RPS carbon/carbon. Its nicer to use a clutch that uses actual surface area vs. pure clamping force to withstand the tq loads that you are putting down.

In addition; The RPS carbon/carbon uses very good materials, where basically the hotter the clutch (carbon surfaces ) get, the better it will hold.

I have heard good things about the Feramic (sp?) faced disc clutches as well, but again.. its a majority of its capacity is maintained by the clamping force of the heavy, stamped steel pressure plate.

I am not sure how much "Crank-walk" is an issue with our VG's, but DSM's and supras have some issues with this (particularly DSM's)..

Supposedly, its when using a single disc, heavy clamp load type clutch that cause pre-mature wear on the Thrust bearing/washer when the engine is not running and the clutch pedal is depressed with no oil pressure to lubricate, and the heavy clutch pedal pushes against the thrust bearing/washer on the crank/main etc. If crank walk DOES occur, Your whole motor will be useless.

If you MUST use a single disc clutch with a heavy clamping force, You can disable the clutch pedal switch. This will allow you to start the engine WITHOUT having the depress the clutch, (make sure you have it in neutral!!!)

Its a very simple easy step to bypass the switch and for added piece of mind, Its definitely worth it.

And the problem is with crank-walk is that once you notice the problems that appear or pre-mature wear on the thrust bearing/washer, Its pretty much already too late. So its better to be safe than sorry with such an easy "mod" to help lessen the problems that heavy single plate clutches *MAY* cause.

Also; An sign of a worn beyond repair thrust bearing/washer is that the vehicle cannot be started with the clutch ALL the way down somtimes. It is not very easy to diagnose without seeing the bearing itself. Very high RPM, fast gear changes with a heavy load single disc pressure plate also *can* cause wear on the thrust bearing/washer.

It is proven on other engines (possibly the VG as well) that any HEAVY pressure plate load typically found in single plate, stamped steel pressure plate causes adverse effects/wear of the thrust bearing/washer (depending on engineering/design of the thrust bearing itself/engine type etc)

Multi-disc clutches that are available use much less clamping force (~clutch pedal stiffness) required to hold the same or more (depending on friction materials used) Torque/hp rating. Since multi-plate clutches use surface area to hold the rated tq/hp, it will theoretically have much less pressure/abuse against thrust bearings/washers or any other part that works in harmony with a clutch setup.

If you have the money, get a multi-disc clutch setup. This goes for anyone that needs an upgrade on their clutch that needs to handle higher power levels. (600rwhp +)

I know that ACT brand especially have super stiff clutches on their single disc options. I had a ACT 2600 on my 1st Gen DSM and it was ridiculous how hard it was to fully depress the clutch pedal. On my TT, I have previously used the SpecialtyZ Sport sprung 6puck, Then the Max sprung 6puck and both did not seem very stiff, but again, If you have the money and plan on doing quite a bit of racing, I would just go for the RPS billet carbon/carbon twin disc as well as doing the clutch switch by-pass "just to be safer".

NO, This picture is not photoshopped. It took many times to take this picture. Setting up the timer, shutter speed etc, then jumping on my bike and getting the tire to spin.



MySpace for those who have em'


AIM:Shawn300zxTT

"-Any closeups on the nuts? - zboost(tx) 19:17:53 08/08/05
-Not really something you want to ask another man about... (n/m) - LordZ 19:24:00 08/08/05"

"I just took 45 min and scrubbed the heck out of my rear"
teambushido(San Diego, CA) 19:24:51 12/11/04

-1991 Stage _ TT 5spd (Upgraded to hell and back)
-1990 Super White 2+2 Na Stage 3 Auto (Daily Driver, contemplating selling.. )
-1990 Cherry Red Pearl ,Auto Coupe (Parts car)
-1990 11 Sec Eagle Talon Tsi AWD, (SOLD!)
-1996 Hyundai Sonata (Given to me for FREE , due to broken timing belt,bent valves.. fixed it myself and its my new DD that gets over 25 mpg!
-2004 Honda CBR 600RR (Candy blue, FOR SALE)

     
Follow Ups  
     
Post a
Followup

You cannot reply to this message because you are not logged in.